Recently in a Facebook chat, the question was asked: “How do I deal with battery acid damage so things don’t get worse?”.
Having recently dealt with both the Quadra 950 and the Amiga 2000, I felt eminently qualified. Here is my answer
This is my method. There are many like it but this is mine. Remove the motherboard, rinse the affected area with white vinegar. It should “fizz”. Keep applying vinegar until the fizzing stops. Rinse thoroughly with tap water and scrub the area. Rinse with distilled water. Rinse with isopropyl alcohol. (You need to get under the chips). Place in a hot, dry environment. (I stick it in the sun for an hour or so) This’ll neutralise that alkaline from the battery completely. You may need to scrub at tracks if the corrosion has got under the solder mask (Tracks will look “dirty” under the mask). If so, you need to remove the mask and clean the track with a very mild abrasive (ink eraser or fiberglass pen) until the corrosion is gone. You’ll then need to seal the tracks. There are professional products out there, but I’m slack so I use nailpolish.
Now, while this is a good answer and barely fitted in a standard reply, I thought I’d expand on it a bit here.
Remove the motherboard, rinse the affected area with white vinegar. It should “fizz”. Keep applying vinegar until the fizzing stops.
To expand on this, I’d be using an old toothbrush to apply the vinegar, and scrubbing aggressively. Not “lift tracks” aggressively, but like you’re brushing your teeth. You really want to react as much of that alkaline as you can.
Rinse thoroughly with tap water and scrub the area. Rinse with distilled water. Rinse with isopropyl alcohol. (You need to get under the chips).
Each time you want to make sure you treat all the are of the previous step. With the tap water step, you really want to remove every last bit of alkaline, vinegar and any other by-products of the reactions, if possible. Distilled water can be a single pass. With the isopropanol, you’re trying to get rid of water trapped under things like chips and sockets. When I used to do this for a living, we had a big tin of it, and we’d soak the entire motherboard in the isopropyl for 15-30 minutes before drying.
Place in a hot, dry environment. (I stick it in the sun for an hour or so) This’ll neutralise that alkaline from the battery completely.
This is further drying. If it’s not sunny, once most of the iso is gone, you can stick it in an oven set to about 50°C for 15 to 20 minutes. That should dry it out.
You may need to scrub at tracks if the corrosion has got under the solder mask (Tracks will look “dirty” under the mask). If so, you need to remove the mask and clean the track with a very mild abrasive (ink eraser or fiberglass pen) until the corrosion is gone.
You can also scrape back the mask carefully with a fine flat bladed screwdriver. Also watch out for fibreglass pens. They drop itchy, irritating fibres everywhere. I always work over a piece of paper, which I fold and discard at the end.
You’ll then need to seal the tracks. There are professional products out there, but I’m slack so I use nailpolish.
Yep. Nail polish. A colour so hideous my wife, who collects nail polishes, didn’t want. Works well, and at least I know where I’ve covered tracks.
I wrote this up for a forum post and thought I’d share it here. It’s not 100% accurate but is “good enough” to help in a lot of cases.
The discussion started with a poster trying to understand how we knew what the capacity of a 41256 RAM chip was.
It’s actually there in the chip name. There’s a standard (Gotta love standards. There’s so many to pick from)
The first digit is whether it’s SRAM or DRAM. 4 for DRAM, 6 for SRAM, so this is a DRAM chip.
The second digit is how many “bits wide” the chip is. Ie how many data pins are there exposed. Commonly it’ll be 1 or 4. I suspect there’s 8 but I’ve never seen it. So 41 series is 1 bit wide DRAM. You can only read / write 1 pit per chip. I have systems using 44 series RAM (Commodore 64 later models) so they’re 4 bits wide and you can read or write a 4 bit nibble per chip.
The rest of the numbers to the hyphen is the number of “cells” of memory there is. Now this is tricky, because you need to multiply the number of “bits wide” the RAM is by this number to get the actual bits, and then by 1024, because it’s a measurement of kilocells. (Confused yet? Took me YEARS to be able to read these). So this chip is 256k x 1 bit wide, thus 32 kilobytes of potential storage.
Now remember that second digit? This is where that becomes significant.
The RAM on late model C64s was 4464 RAM. Thus DRAM, 4 bits wide, 64k cells of 4 bits wide. Thus each of these was also 32 kilobyes wide. The difference? Whereas 41256 needs eight chips to make an 8 bit datapath, 4464 only needed 2 chips to to make the full 8 bit datapath.
Now, not all systems have 8 bit datapaths. I have an Archimedes (Sadly, currently not working as well as it should) that has a 32 bit wide data bus. It has an absolute sea of 411024 RAM on the motherboard (The nomenclature is slightly different because it was sourced by a different manufacturer, but it’s equivelent).
So, DRAM, 1 bit wide, 1megabit. But it needs to read it 32 bits at a time, so there are 32 of them, for a grand total of 4MB of RAM.
I built up the -5v rail for the A2000 and fully reassembled it. Unfortunately the A2000 is presenting with a black screen. No synch or other signs of life. Not the end of the world, but it does mean it’s on hold until my new Oscilloscope arrives.
Mac Quadra 950
I got the last SIMM off with no further damage. I’ll be ordering some more SIMM sockets eventually, but for now it’s on hold. I have a second one already fully working, so this one is a long term project.
My “Final Expansion 3” finally arrived today. It’s awesome! It combines many different devices into one. It’s a RAM expansion! It’s a cartridge emulator! It’s a disk drive! I’ve been playing a lot of classic VIC 20 games today. (Special shoutout to “Attack of the Mutant Camels”. Jeff Minter, I salute you!)
Microsoft Sidewinder 3D Pro
I built up another board from Necroware. This one uses a Arduino Nano as an adapter from modern USB to the mixture of analog and digital formats understood by the 15 pin joysticks of the day. This has allowed me to dust off my old Sidewinder 3D pro. Now I wanna play a Mech game to give it a proper test! Oh well. OOLITE will have to do.
Started work on a laser cut case for this wee beastie. Not perfect, but this is why we do the prototypes out of MDF. Speaking of which, it’s almost impossible to get MDF these days. Strange times indeed.
I’ve finished off a keyboard to PS/2 adapter for this. Unfortunately one of my MT8808AE chips is dead. I have ordered spares. Otherwise it works perfectly. I believe it will be open sourced shortly.
Amstrad CPC 464
I modified a connector for this to better attune the video signals. It’s the same as the one I use on my BBC Master and my Acorn Electron. It lets me plug into my LCD monitor.
I’ve done a minor upgrade in the form of downlights. These are IKEA bedside lamps, with the bases removed, and screwed into some bits of spare pine instead. Unfortunately these seem to be discontinued, which is a pity.
Finally, don’t eat the Forbidden Sprinkles. They are Forbidden for a reason.
In parallel, I’ve started fixing both the Amiga 2000 and the Quadra 950 boards. Both had extensive battery damage. In both cases I’d neutralised the battery alkaline with vinegar, water and isopropanol washes.
I started with the Amiga.
Evaluating the board, I ended up pulling off all components and sockets in about a 10cm radius circle around the battery. This included the 68000 CPU, the resistor packs and lots of capacitors in the area. After that I was able to check what was damaged. Amazingly there only seems to be two bad traces and one bad via at this point. I patched the traces with kynar wire on the underside and used a thin leg from a resistor to replace the via.
I’ve ordered replacement resistor packs, as well as replacements for all the capacitors that were nearby. Most seemed corroded, so I’m not taking chances. I also ordered some replacements for the generic 74 series logic that had been nearby.
I replaced the keyboard connector and the joystick port with parts sourced locally. I also replaced the battery with a non rechargeable CR2032 coin cell holder, with some slight changes to the circuit in the area. I was able to find the diode I needed at Artifactory, which saved me a trip.
I finished off the harness for the power supply. I “stole” an ATX off an old PC motherboard that had died. I simply wired through all the appropriate pins. I’m waiting on a 7905 voltage regulator so I can make a -5V rail for the system.
I also located and changed the “tick” jumper on the main board so the system is no longer looking for a tick signal from the PSU. Amusingly I found it in an old Usenet post where the first person replying was David Haynie, the engineer for the later Amigas and the second post was Dr Peter Kittel, one of the leads of the Amiga support team from Germany. Straight from the horses mouth as they say.
I’ve also ordered parts so I can build a keyboard adapter, similar to the one I made for the Archimedes, just for the Amiga 2000 instead.
I also fitted the original on/off switch to drive the ATX connector instead of the mains.
At this point I’ve got as far as I can reasonably get without more parts. They should be in early next week.
MACINTOSH QUADRA 950
This one has been tough going. It’s got 16 SIMM sockets in joined pairs and 8 of them have battery damage. Serious damage too.
The corrosion has, in many cases, turned all the solder into some strange salt. no amount of heat will turn it back to solder, and new solder won’t stick to it until it’s removed. Thankfully it’s not impacted the copper on the traces as badly, and in most cases mechanical removal works as the salt just crumbles out of the through holes.
This did, however mean I had to mechanically break up the SIMM sockets completely. I used a pair of side cutters and cut through the SIMMS bit by bit, removed the plastic and then concentrated on the pins. This usually consisted of snapping off the tops and pulling through the remains of the pin with tweezers, or in some cases, a really hot soldering iron.
Only the SIMMs in the direct line of the acid spill needed this much effort, however. The other rows joined to these ones were simply removed with the desoldering station and very little fuss. At worst I needed to add just a bit more solder a couple of times and maybe scrape back some oxide off the solder to expose fresh metal below.
I still, as of writing this article, have one pair of SIMMs to remove, but as these have taken the least hit, I’m not too worried about them.
So far I’ve found one bad trace and damaged two more while working on this, so I’ll need to bodge them back in before I seal everything up.
Amazingly you can still buy 30 pin SIMM sockets new! I’ll need 8 so nearly $50 worth. I just hope I can get all this working at the end of the day 🙂
Well I haven’t stopped working on projects and while some of the have been successful, others have not been so successful. It doesn’t help that my desoldering station has broken. I just need to get some specialised glue to fix it.
The Archie still has a bunged Floppy Disk Drive and I’m stumped as to what the problem could be. I’ve traced every wire from the FDD to the the chips they connect to. I have then checked from those chips to either the bus or to the next chip. I have also checked those chips. I’ve run out of ideas as to what to look at next. Back in the naughty corner with it for now. It’s a pity. I’d love to have it working well enough that I could use it. I even have upgrades for it that are just sitting around as I can’t use them.
I have a C64 that’s dead. Black screen. The Dead Test cart flashes once. That usually indicates the first bank of RAM. I’ve swapped that RAM with known good RAM. No change. I’ve swapped the PLA. No change. I probably need to get it under an Oscilloscope. This brings me to my next point.
I’ve hit the limits of what I can do with this scope. The big limitation is the lack of documentation. The website links only to a defunct video. Not the most helpful. I think I’ll need to get a new ‘scope.
I tried upgrading the ROM set on my 4 ROM Amiga MultiKick. I’m using an adapter in my TL866II+ to allow me to burn larger ROMs, in sections. It works well, but I haven’t been able to get Kickstart 2 to work. Normally it would just be a matter of reversing the byte order and burning it out. It shows up in the TL866 and looks sane. I just get the screen flashing red. The other 3 ROMs work fine. I even went out to see if there was a different version of the ROM and there’s not. I’m even using the official ROM from Cloanto that came with Amiga Forever when I purchased it.
1081 CRT Monitor
This came with the Amiga 2000 and was reported as having a dead Monitor switch. Thankfully replacements are available and I even had some in stock. It was a relatively pain free job to crack the cover, remove the switch and solder on a new switch in it’s place. I even added shrinkwrap where the original switch had none. Tested OK with my Amiga. This is my first monitor with SCART.
I’d started this project a long time ago, but finally got it working the way I wanted. Effectively it’s a hack of the GBS8200 arcade scaler to make it more compatible and more stable with a wide range of systems. It consists of the GBS 8200, with an ESP32 development board wired in, as well as an optional high accuracy chip clock generator. The whole thing is silly cheap to build and the picture quality is astounding. I’m using mine as a flicker fixer for my Amigas. One of the more interesting things I attempted this time around was to add shielding to unshielded cables. The wires used for the video signal were just straight hookup wire, terminated in the “special” connector for the GBS. I found some old coax, stripped the outer plastic sheath carefully, then removed the copper inner sheath. I then “puffed” this up by compressing it along the direction the sheath ran. I ran the cables I wanted to shield through the middle of the copper sheath then stretched the sheath out over the wires. I terminated both ends with glue impregnated heatshrink to make sure it doesn’t go anywhere. I don’t know if it’ll actually make a difference, but it sure looks nice.
NecroWare MCE Adapter
This is a little kit I got made up when I ordered the boards for the Omega MSX. It’s designed to convert TTL level signals like those from an IBM CGA adapter over to VGA style signalling. It’s based around a GAL to do the level shifting. In fact, this was the first GAL I ever programmed! (I programmed an additional 3 for the Omega MSX). While not advertised as working with the Commodore 128, I thought it was worthwhile to at least attempt to use it with the C128, as I knew the signalling was supposedly the same. I’m pleased to confirm it worked flawlessly. I have another Necroware project just pending parts.
I’ve started the long, long path of trying to get the Amiga 2000 back on its feet. Step one is getting the power supply sorted. This is proving “exciting” as the existing power supply was not only dead in an exceedingly difficult to fix way, the power supply itself had been mercilessly hacked by a previous owner. My current plan is to modify an ATX Power supply to work in its place. I’ve modified the old PSU frame to take the new PSU. I just need to wire the Amiga loom to the ATX PSU. I’d like to do it in a way that I can swap out the PSU if needed. I plan to start by attacking an old motherboard for its ATX connector. I’ll need a desoldering station for that.
One thing I’ve wanted to do for a very long time is to build a kit computer. Originally I planned to build a Spectrum 128k clone. I’ll probably still do that in the future, but as I had a Spectrum already, there was less pressure to get another speccy. I kept pushing it back.
The Omega is an MSX 2 “remake” with some compatibility with the MSX 2+ standard. It’s an open source project and the boards can be ordered from any PCB fab of your choice. I ordered some boards last year, as well as a big order from an e-bay seller who was selling “all the silicon” components as a bundle. I ordered the special 64 pin oddly spaced socket for the video chip from AliExpress. Just before Christmas I ordered the rest of the components from twodifferent suppliers. This was mostly passives, connectors and sockets. Incidentally, if any suppliers want to sponsor me, reach out to me!
Once I had all the components, (Bar three. More on that later) it was time to star assembling. This was remarkably simple. I simply worked from lowest to highest, starting with the diodes, then resistors, then resistor arrays, sockets, capacitors and finally connectors. I only had a few mishaps along the way.
Firstly, one of the DRAM did not want to go in to the socket and I accidently snapped off one of the legs. A quick patch with a bit cut off one of the resistor arrays and it dropped right in.
Secondly, I bent a pin on the Yamaha sound chip. I didn’t even notice this until final inspection. Simply bending it out was enough to fix the issue.
Thirdly, and this only came up in testing, I had the SRAM and EPROM switched. Neither was the exact brand as specified in the BOM. They were substitutions, so this is my own damned fault. Swapping the two chips fixed this final main board issue.
I was testing and inspecting continuously as I assembled things. Mostly I was just making sure there were no shorts between 5v and GND. I checked after the resistors and sockets went in, and then again after the capacitors went in, and again, once more, once the chips were in. At no point did I get a short, so that made me confident enough to actually try the system.
On my first power up, with I got a black screen. This was good! This meant that enough signal was being generated that my screen was synching to a valid video signal. This usually means that most of the system is executing. Occasionally on startup, I’d also get a few seconds of garbage on screen. More signs that it was mostly working. After some hair tearing, I finally caught on to the issue with the SRAM and EPROM being swapped. Swapping them back and we had success! The MSX logo came up and it booted to a command prompt.
At this point, the second round of issues came up, and they were all with the keyboard.
Firstly, I’d accidently ordered the wrong resistor array for the keyboard. Initially I just bodged in a set of the appropriate resistors and made my own array. However, while doing some cleaning of a storage container full of components, I later discovered that I did have the correct array. Ironically, it was a part I’d incorrectly ordered for a completely different project. Hang on to your spare parts, folks. You never know when they’ll be useful.
Secondly the LEDs were super dim. Guess what? A 470kΩ resistor is not the same as a 470Ω resistor. I’d used resistors with a thousand times the resistance. No wonder the resistors were dim! A quick substitution and we were good to go.
Finally I’d got some of the LEDs in backwards. In my defense, the boards were marked poorly for polarity on these components.
I will mention some of my experience building this board:
There are a lot of capacitors! Over 90. I think I went a bit cross-eyed installing them. Finding where they all went was time consuming. There were two I couldn’t find after several minutes of searching. In the end, I opened the PCB in KiCAD and used the built in search function to find where they were supposed to go.
Ditto for 74 series “jellybean” logic. I ended up having to use KiCAD for finding one of the locations.
There were three components that I simply could not locate. I have them on back order. Thankfully they are only the audio out RCA socket, the RTC battery holder and the printer port connector, none of which will slow me down.
The instructions are more than sparse. They’re practically hiding. I hit several issues where I had to guess. Of course, after the build, I found the following site which has excellent instructions. They’re in Spanish. Use an auto translator. You’ll be fine.
I haven’t been able to get RGB video working yet. I still have a little more work to try before I give up. SVideo is awesome, though.
Compiling the BIOS seems completely undocumented. I just grabbed a “pre rolled” BIOS instead.
The JED files for the GALs were difficult to find. They’re on the GitHub page. They’re just not obvious. All the instructions talk about using a converter to convert a text file to a JED. Unfortunately the software doesn’t work under 64 bit Windows. Just look for the JEDs.
The keyboard assembly for the spacebar is horrible. You have to bend your own stabiliser bar. Mine is still not right. It works but it’s just not “right”.
There’s this one Sony chip with a strange width. I ended up using two pieces of machined pin strip socket.
The stabilisers for the keyboard vexed me for a long time. Firstly, you need to slide the smaller part into the larger part. Then you clip the stabiliser bar into a pair of the stabilisers. It goes in the middle hole. It clips in at the edge. The stabilisers then clip in. You put the smaller side with the lip into the larger hole and the side with the split goes into the smaller hole.
The LEDs on the keys go through the keys. Don’t get this wrong.
The Long Version: So on December 31, I went and picked up two Quadra 950s, in an unknown state, but one with battery damage.
Having taken the first off as a break (Being repeatedly woken by the neighbours, who decided to “party all night” does not help one’s ability to fix systems. I finally asked them to turn the music off at 5:15am, having already asked them to turn it down at 4am) I got stuck into the corroded system on the Saturday.
Pulling open the system revealed a long, still slightly sticky trail of rust and corrosion, running between two sets of SIMM sockets.
It took me a few goes to get the system apart. The procedure (Which I have now done several times now) is as follows:
Remove the front cover over the speaker. It’s held on with two clips on the bottom of the panel, and two near the top, which clip through the case and are accessed from the inside of the case. Unclip the speaker wire.
Remove the drives and drive caddies. Don’t forget to remove power cables and both the floppy drive cable and the SCSI cable. The caddies are held in by a single screw on the front of each caddy. The are clipped in and slide straight out towards you. Be careful around the floppy drive. You may have to unclip one side of it’s front panel.
Remove the caddy holder. It’s held in with two screws. It slides sideways towards the back of the case and then it slides forward.
Remove the power supply. First, unclip the main board power connector. It’s held in with a small press clip. Then remove three screws. One at the front and two at the back. It slides out towards you.
Remove the programmer and reset buttons. Gently squeeze them from inside the case just before they enter the front panel, then push them forward out of the front of the case.
On the back of the case, on the right hand side, in line with the gap between the SIMM sockets is a spring loaded plastic clip. Push down on it and slide the whole motherboard sideways towards the front of the case. The whole motherboard will now be loose. Pick it up from the front side of the case and lift it out. The back half will follow.
Once I had it out, I took it across to the sink and rinsed and scrubbed it to get the worst of the nastiness off it. I followed with plenty of vinegar. (I left it for a few seconds until the bubbling stopped). Another rinse under the tap followed by distilled water followed by a spray of Isopropyl alcohol over all the major chips.
I made sure I scrubbed the back too as some of the corrosion seemed to have worked its way down the legs of the SIMM sockets and out the other side. This worries me as it may mean the board has corrosion on one of the middle layers.
After that, out into the sun to bake off all the water. It was a nice hot day so the water evaporated easily. I flipped the board to make sure no water was hiding under anything and gave it a second spray of Iso.
While it was drying I checked out the SIMMs that had been in the system.
There were 12 SIMMs. Two were a complete write off. Two, however, seemed worth salvaging as they were labelled “8MB” so back into the whole water -> vinegar -> water -> distilled water -> isopropyl. The rest were completely fine. I have them a quick cleanup anyway and all out in the sun.
Now onto the case. Same process as before then out in the sun. It’s pretty badly stained, but it’s inside the case so, what can you do?
I let that all sit and dry and started working on a Mac to VGA adapter. There are some articles out there that list all sorts of details, but the best guide I found was this one. I built myself a nice high bandwidth connector. Not pretty but who cares?
Not wanting to work more on the systems, but not wanting to lose momentum, I also start looking at the floppy drive, which needs a whole lotta love. I start work on it but at this point I chose to stop for the night.
The next day I was feeling more enthused. I asked around on the “Vintage Apple and Macintosh Enthusiasts of Australia” Facebook group if there was anything I’d need to check before firing up the “good” system.
I also went and watched an excellent video on cleaning and servicing the floppy drive, while I waited for replies to my query on Facebook. I immediately got to work and cleaned and lubricated the drive.
I went back to check on Facebook, and after several cries of “Naah just turn it on” (Including one from a certain expert) I decided to plug it in and turn it on.
Hmm. Maybe the power supply? I have a spare. Swapped it over.
At this point I measured some resistances and the whole board seemed to be short circuited, showing only 5Ω of resistance across the 5V rail. Odd. That didn’t sound right. Out came the multimeter and I spent the next half hour checking resistance across all the Tantalum capacitors.
It all looked fine.
I even started looking if there were tricks to turning on the PSU by “hotwiring” it in a similar fashion to what you can do with ATX power supplies. It was about this point I made an important discovery. What I assumed were power buttons on the front? They’re the programmer’s button and the reset button. You need to plug in a keyboard and turn it on from there. D’oh!
Plug in the keyboard (and mouse for good measure) and press the button! Immediately the enormous fan spins up… and spins back down. This is actually good! It’s doing “something”. A kind soul on the forums mentions that this is probably a bad PSU. Oh well. I do have TWO of them. Plug in the second drive and… whoosh! It roars to life.
I have the video plugged in and I wait and wait and wait, and just when I’m about to give up hope, up comes a hashed grey screen and a cursor. We have life! There’s the familiar “Insert floppy” symbol.
I happen to have a floppy disk on hand so let’s check the floppy drive. The disk drops in fine, attempts to read, fails (As expected) and then ejects… Or tries to eject.
The eject mechanism made a sad little whine, then a grinding noise followed by a whirring noise. Welp. Time to look at replacing that gear that always fails. Sure enough it has turned to orange powder. It’s amazing! The gear literally is softer than chalk.
I turn the drive gear so the notch is to the front. This will trip the sensor so the drive stops spinning. I also reached out to my friend who is a much better 3D Printer person than me, to see if she can print me a replacement gear or two on her high end resin printers.
OK so we are now at the point where we can start building up the server some more. I have several SCSI hard disks and some SCSI CD ROM drives. I start “simple” by testing the three drives that came with the Quadras. The first disk I try doesn’t even try and spin up. The second makes a disturbing “pew pew!” noise and the third spins up but does nothing.
Time for some lateral thinking. I know it’s not termination. Could it simply be that the drive is unpartitioned? OK so if we start from that, how do we get the system installed? What about booting from CD? I wanted to put one in there anyway…
Out comes the CD ROM. I quickly find a copy of System 7.5.3 and burn it to a blank CD/ I check the jumpers are all “sane”, plug it in and hold down the ‘C’ key to tell the system to boot from the drive. Amazingly, it boots first time.
Yahoo! We have a working Macintosh! Best of all, the SCSI hard disk that’s in there is recognised. I do a complete install, and it even boots correctly. I am amazed.
Just in case I check the other two drives and with either of them in, the system won’t boot. I think the drives themselves are completely dead. A pity, but 350MB should keep me going for now. Down the track I might buy a different storage solution, or work on some of my random SCSI CDs I have lying around the place.
At this point I check and I have 40MB of RAM already in this system. Short of the maximum 256GB, but not to be sneezed at. Wonder if I can do better? Remember those 8MB sticks? I pull them out, clean them up with an eraser, then reflow the contacts with fresh solder as the current surface is so bad it’s brown down to the copper.
Taking the outermost bank of SIMMs out and rebooting, my memory drops down to 36MB. Good. I figured this one has 2 banks of 4 x 4MB sticks for a total of 32MB and 2 banks of 4 x 1MB for a total of 8MB.
By removing the final bank or 4 x 1MB and substituting 4 x 8Mb I can theoretically bring it all the way up to 68MB. Let’s see if my Plan works?
It works! I’ve salvaged the 8MB SIMMs.
At this point I start doing cosmetic stuff. The first thing I notice is that somewhere along the line, the system has taken an awful knock and both the case and PSU are actually bent. The case I’m using is also stained with something nasty that doesn’t want to come off the outside of the case.
The PSU I eventually fixed (After an abortive attempt to swap the shell with that of the PSU with dead capacitors) with some good old percussive maintenance. I hit it with a hammer over a block of wood until it’s back in shape. Now it fits nicely.
As for the case, I ended up swapping everything over to the other case, as it’s in a much better state. A bit of elbow grease and it looks quite presentable. As a side effect I discovered the speaker in the “dirty” case is dead.
(For those trying to keep up, there were two Quadras, one was clean in good shape but with a corroded motherboard, 2 dead HDDs and a dead PSU. The other Quadra had a bent case, a damaged speaker but a good motherboard and a working but bent power supply.)
There is still a lot of work to do. For reasons I am currently unsure of, the CD ROM seems to have stopped. Not sure if it’s the drive or the system. (I’ve tried a second SCSI CD ROM but I don’t know if that one is good or not either. I’ll have to try my external case and see if the drive works with the SE/30). I also need to make a cover for the front of the system to cover the 5¼” drive bay but still allow access to the CD ROM.
There also may be some upgrades in the future. More on those as they come to hand.
I also want to start work on the second system. If I can, I’d like to salvage at least some of that system. Hopefully I can fix the mainboard and the PSU. It would be great to salvage another system.
Thanks to uBee and Brad, I now have all the parts to finish off my 16k MicroBee.
It’s a beauty! Yes, it’s yellowed. Yes, there’s engravings in the top cover. Yes, the keys look like the teeth of a chain smoker, but that is exactly the type of character I like in my systems.
Some quick notes:
The screws holding the top case to the lower case turn out to be an exact match for a bunch I purchased in bulk from Jaycar a few years back. I think they were the part number HP0414, but I’ll check and post here later.
The “case badge” was designed up in CorelDraw and printed onto silver paper. I covered it with clear contact, cut it with a roller cutter for straight edges and then applied some workable fixative spray glue. This kind of pipeline (CorelDraw, Laser printer, Roller Cutter, Workable Fixative) has become my “go to” to make surprisingly realistic badges and labels for a whole heap of systems. They’ll never pass anything more than a passing inspection, but they do look better than nothing at all.
In my last big order from a ubiquitous Chinese e-commerce site, I ordered FIVE Gotek drives, earmarked for a variety of systems, including my Amiga 1200 (when it gets built), my Amiga 600 and the Atari STᴱ.
I had a cunning plan, and one of the reasons I’ve been so quiet recently was that I’ve been working on the plan.
You see, one of the things I don’t like with the Gotek is, by default, it has only got a 3×7 segment display, and a pair of buttons to run things. I wanted upgrades in the form of a nice big OLED display and a rotary dial. But where to put them? When I’d been working on the Archimedes, I’d had the clever idea to mount the screen on a cable, and that seemed to work well. I wanted to take that to the next level, so I’d been thinking about the design for a while.
The long linear connector of the design for the Archimedes took up space and was not very elegant. A better design was needed. I knew I only needed 7 wires.
“Seven you say? Surely the rotary encoder needs 5 and the OLED needs 4. Isn’t that nine?” Aha! you’ve been fooled! The GND and +3.3V pins are shared between the Rotary encoder and the OLED, and the Rotary encoder actually only needs 4 pins not 5.
I decided on using a DuPont connector for the computers and Pin Header for the OLED Display. I settled on a pin being removed to make sure the connector couldn’t be plugged in backwards and from there a 2×4 row of pins was the logical size.
I sat down with the Wiki and carefully plotted out my pins. Then I looked at them again and rearranged the pins completely to be more logical 😀
Grabbing out the crimper I made up the socket in about 40 minutes. Note to self, next time use multicoloured “rainbow” wires. They’re a lot easier to keep track of what pin goes where.
At this point I made the other half. This consisted, on the connector side, of some experimenter’s board, some pin header and a zip tie for strain relief. I soldered on some nice flexible 8 core cable and soldered on the OLED and rotary encoder to the other end.
At this point I tested everything and it worked as planned.
I’d already flashed the Goteks with FlashFloppy, but I needed to get some more pin header, with 2 rows and a right angle, as if the pins stick straight up, you can’t close the case. A quick trip to Altronics fixed that. Now the connectors could lie flat inside the case.
Next I 3D printed two different styles of bracket (one for the Amiga 600 and one for the STᴱ to hold the DuPont connectors in place. A dab of super glue and the whole things were done on the computer side.
Next up I printed up a nice case for the OLED and the Rotary dial. It’s almost good enough for release. I need to tweak some dimensions but it still looks good.
Finally, having accidentally shorted two wires and severed a third, I resoldered the connector, covered it in hot glue, then a piece of cloth that I’d impregnated with hot glue, then finally gently heated the whole thing so everything hot glue bonded together. THis gives me an incredibly strong connector I can easily remove.